One does not simply hike the TMB
TL:DR
- TMB is also a culinary experience with a blend of three slightly different Alpine cuisines and traditions
- One can easily complete camping TMB in 9 days but it requires at least 2 non-camping stops on the Italian side to complete the whole route
- Camping options works really well if you have an option to cook your own dinners while having lunches at Refugios on the way; these don’t require booking in advance
Once you do your first 50k, you simply end up craving for more kilometers. One race leads to another, and one day you end up doing Ultra-TMB
Dave Goodwind, who’s never ran a normal marathon in his life
How did we get there?
Almost by definition, the most beautiful and rewarding places to see on this planet are not easily accessible and take energy to explore. They are usually not simple holiday but travel spots instead. One could say that adventure has always been my second name. Likely true, but the reasons behind it are more complex and should be left alone for another piece. One of the key personality traits is my relatively high threshold for inconvenience and hassle coupled with huge internal craving for exploration.
My road to TMB started in late 2018 when, in the wake of a major life change, I decided to try something new and unknown yet challenging and beautiful at the same time -> test the waters of multi-day hiking in Torres del Paine in Patagonia. I had never carried a large traveller backpack before, but was clearly up for an adventure. It took only 10 days but left me longing for years to come of more nature to see. It also proved that living in a tent for multiple days with no easy access to a shower was not a problem.
Since then I have embarked on a few other major treks including Rim-to-Rim and Annapurna trail. Coincidentally this summer I witnessed a bunch of my best friends getting married in Europe opening up a perfect time slot for a crazy hike. Given the beauty of the Alps, I did not think twice but started planning how I could fit it into my itinerary and convince others to join.
Initial research quickly showed that booking refugios for all 11 stages of the trip was impossible 8 months ahead making camping the only feasible alas a more exciting option. Ultimately it is what made this trip possible as it provided us with the flexibility needed to coordinate a crew of 5.
Happy crew before the start
and after finishing
Day 1: Les Houches to Les Contamines
We took it easy on the first day and made use of hotel breakfast at 8am knowing that we would be making our own for the next few days. It was surprisingly hot (32C+) when we set off for our warm up hike to Les Contamines. Soon after passing the start gate in Les Houches, we reached the first set of stairs which led to a 3h climb up to our first col, or mountain pass, of the trip. Despite unforgiving heat and heavy backpacks, we eventually made it to the top after 3h. Oh well, the trek was actually not as easy as I imagined it to be. Its elevation gain of 10 km was almost double what we did in Patagonia in 2019.
Day 2: Les Contamines to Des Mottets
The second day is considered to be one of the most challenging ones due to both elevation gain and length wise if one wants to finish in fewer than 11 days. Its total length is 29 km including climbing up Col du Bonhomme and a long downhill in the afternoon.
Still easing into the TMB, we woke up to an empty campsite as other hikers had already left. We set out around 8.30am and learnt the painful lesson of the temperature impact when hiking a steep path in direct sun. Using a significant amount of sunscreen may be a solution, but we decided to wake up early next time and make use of the morning shade.
On the way up, we stopped at Refuge La Balme for a tea break only to be surprised by the best blueberry tart of the entire circuit. Had we only known, we would have ordered more and brought some to the next campsite. Visiting refugios and trying their takes on local mountain dishes is a big part of the TMB journey, and one that we would continue to indulge in at every stop.
In the second half of the day we learnt another lesson to plan our days more carefully. We reached the top of Bonhomme around 1pm quite behind our schedule, but we made lunch at the Refugio by 2 mins. It was probably the best pasta with cheese I have ever had.
On the way down we changed our route trading off 2 hours longer flat walk from Le Chapieux for only extra 200m ascent up Col du Fours. We made the next stop slightly before it got dark, but calling it a campsite was a bit of an overstatement. Despite being an “abandoned farm”, it did not have any facilities and we ended up having “showers” in the river below.
Day 3: Des Mottets to Courmayeur
By day 3 we managed our sun exposure better through waking up earlier consistently. We took a quick coffee break at Refugio Des Mottets before heading out towards Courmayeur.
We were excited to start turning around the massif and finally catch first glimpses of Mont Blanc at Col de Seigne at the French-Italian border. Supposedely the Mont Blanc itself is an unsettled territorial dispute that dates back to Napoleonic times. Living up to all the stereotypes, crossing the border meant that refugios no longer offered croissants and baguettes, but instead had good cappuccinos and crostatas. All of a sudden everyone started greeting each other on the trail with a resounding ciao instead of bonjour!
For most of the day we walked along the valley appreciating different angles of Mont Blanc. We expected the rest of the day to be “nice and easy” based on Tim’s estimates, but our expectations quickly faced harsh reality. “Gentle uphill” turned into a second major climb of the day followed by a steep path down to Courmayeur to finish off.
Day 4: Courmayeur to Bonatti
Each country comes with its own rules and traditions on the TMB. Italy and Switzerland only allow wild camping above 2500m (!). We got lucky securing a last minute spot at the most spectacular stop — Refugio Bonatti.
Learning the hard way that mountain forecast may turn upside down overnight, we bought extra waterproof layers before leaving Courmayeur. Literally weather was supposed to change from 34C+ all the way to 0C and snowing the next few days. Due to the delay, we had to forgo taking Variante de la Tête Bernarda with an elevation gain of 1600m as we did not want to miss dinner at Bonatti.
Looking back, we were extremely lucky to find last minute spots at Bonatti as otherwise we would have to take extra buses to complete the whole route while missing on great Italian mountainous hospitality and other crazy hikers during the dinner.
Day 5: Bonatti to La Fouly
As every other day on the TMB, we faced an uphill climb in the morning to Tete de Ferret at the Italian-Swiss border with a stop at Refugio Elena for coffee and tea. We were excited to cross the border again as seeing the differences between each neighboring country is one of the most rewarding aspects of TMB.
We bid our farewells to Italy at the Ferret pass, and started walking down into Switzerland as the landscape changed considerably. The Swiss section of TMB clearly felt like an orderly but not touristy countryside. In line with all the stereotypes, the campsite was expensive, very well organized, and fully equipped.
Day 6: La Fouly to Col de la Forclaz
Miscounting days needed to complete the hike required us to do another “double day”. Changing weather made it more worthwhile to combine two Swiss stages into one and leave ourselves more time for the final part of the TMB in Chamonix.
The highlight of the day was a last minute blueberry-raspberry-apple crumble and plum tart that we managed to catch at Alpage de Bovine with a great view of the Swiss side. It made me wanna try to make it back home, but chances are I wouldn’t be able to recreate that perfect taste and vibes.
Day 7: Col de la Forclaz to Tre Le Champ
Sunday became the testing ground for all of the waterproof gear as it rained most of the day. We ultimately crossed the border at Refugio la Balme. According to most guides it was supposed to feature a spectacular view of Mont Blanc but weather was not really collaborative with low clouds and fog in all directions.
Arriving back in the Chamonix valley, we decided to pay a visit to a local boulangerie Bakery l’Al’pain for an evening snack which made up for all the continuous rain before.
Day 8: Tre Le Champ to La Flegere
We split the final section of TMB along the Chamonix valley into two hoping for weather to get better. We can’t say we did not have great weather overall, but it was a little bit bittersweet to climb those infamous ladders in pouring rain at temperature close to freezing. Despite hiking for only 3.5 hours, we spent the rest of the day in a long drying session at Refugio La Flegere. Truth be told, it did leave me with a feeling of wanting to go back there and only to redo the section for views of Mont Blanc from there were apparently astonishing.
Day 9: Le Flegere to Les Houches
We hoped that final day would clear up a little as we were going to climb up Le Brevent at 2525m above the forecasted snow level. Our high hopes for clouds to go way were quickly dashed. Instead of enjoying the non-existent views, we took our lunch boxes and ate on the way down to Refugio Bellachat.
Final descent of 1500m al the way down to Les Houches was surprisingly nice with a few rocky sections with chains that one would not expect from a “simple way down the mountain”. I particularly enjoyed green, lush scenery with plenty of cows on the way.
